Question:
I don't have the fourth rail on my frame. I find it's hard for me to roll up the batting with my quilt as the instructions tell me to do, as I'm getting lots of folds in my quilt. I'm pulling my hair out! What can I do?
Answer:
When I bought my own frame, the quilt shop showed me that they let their batting hang loose in-between the back two rails. I always let my batting hang like this, and this allows it to feed evenly as I roll my quilt. So this might be an option to rolling it up with your quilt. Even letting the batting pool onto the floor works fine for me. The only problem I can foresee is if you have loving animals (or children?) that like to roll around at your feet while you quilt.
Question:
Are these rail-type frames going to be too hard for me to manipulate? I have arthritis, and I'm in a wheelchair. How do the frames work?
Answer:
I really like the ease of all of these rail systems. I think any one of them would be easy for you to manipulate once the frames are put together, as you wouldn't need to baste your quilt on the floor first. Here's what you would do. You'd go behind the frame to the back, and have your backing or quilt lining fabric. Holding this with the print side down, you'd find the center, and pin it onto the center of the fabric leader that's attached to the middle rail. You'd pin this all along the edge of the leader, with your pins about 2" apart. Once this is pinned on, you'd use your hand to roll the lining up onto this middle rail. Then, you'd repeat the process with the quilt top (finding center, pinning on, rolling.) Then, you'd go to the front of the frame, and pull the lining fabric forward to the front rail. Have the center marked with a pin. You'd pull your batting up inbetween the back two rails and lay this on top of your lining, then pull your quilt top to match the edges of the lining and batting (have the center marked.) Then, you'd match all the centers and start pinning this onto your fabric leader that's attached to the front rail. Once this is pinned on, you want to roll the back two rails backwards again until the quilt is as taut as you want it, and you're ready to quilt. No basting involved.
Question:
Which rail-type frame is the easiest to use?
Answer:
Wow, I'm sure I missed several things, but just from having customers call us back with reports after having their frames set up, I'll give you their responses. The EZ3 seems to be the easiest to set up, fold, and move. It's the longest to store, as the frames are always the same length. However, even with the length, it's the most loved of all the frames that we've sold. All the frames have at least 12" of quilting depth, the most is 15" on the A34. I'm able to fold and store mine behind my couch or sofa when I'm not using them. I've also kept them alongside my bed, and other customers have said they store them under their bed. You may never need to store yours away, and this might be a deciding factor for you.
Question:
Do I need to buy anything else besides my frames? Can I start right off just by purchasing the frames themselves?
Answer:
Once you decide on your frames, here are a few suggestions. - Attach the fabric leaders as the frame instructions suggest. This will allow you to advance your quilt forward to quilt every quiltable inch, which you couldn't if you just tacked your quilt to the rails. These leaders will also protect your quilt from touching the wooden rails if that is a concern to you. I made my leaders out of fabric that I had on hand that I'd never use again. Once these leaders are tacked to the frame, you never need to remove them. They'll just be there for every quilt you decide to quilt. We sell the leaders, along with thumb tacks and long quilting pins, but if you have access to these items, you won't need to buy this starter kit. - decide if you want the additional edgemaster for your frame. This helps keep the sides taut while you're quilting, eliminating the chance of puckering, shifting and wavy edges. You could also take some fabric strips and attach them to the sides of your quilt, and tack them to the sides of your frame to get the same effect without purchasing the additional item. About 35% of our customers buy the edgemaster at purchase. You could always buy this later if you decided it was necessary. - If you buy one of the larger frames (the A34 or the Z44), you might think of purchasing the winged-bolt upgrade kit ($8). I don't mention this to customers because we have to order them special from the Grace Company, but in your situation, you might want the ease in folding the larger frame that these winged bolts will give you. You substitute them for the hex-headed bolts that are included with your frame, and then when you want to fold the frame, you don't need additional tools. If you're interested in this, we would be able to get it before we ship your frames to you, or else within the next few days after we ship out your frames.
Question:
What can you tell me about "The Grace Company" frames?
Answer:
Sorry this is so long, but I want you to know what a marvelous company the Grace Company is. Their frames are great, and they really stand behind every frame that they make and sell. They personally make every frame, and I've seen them replace rails and parts that UPS has damaged. I've had my frames almost 4 years, and my rails are wonderfully straight and even because of the laminated hardwood that they've use for the rails. My old frames that my dad made from 1 x 4 lumber are very twisted. I've really loved my EZ396 frames, and I'm sure you'll enjoy whatever model you decide to go with. Good luck deciding! It's hard to choose, but they're all great frames, and any one would be a good choice.
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